I changed this in /etc/init.d/nfs-user-server:

        start-stop-daemon --start --oknodo --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.nfsd -- -r
        printf " nfsd"
        start-stop-daemon --start --oknodo --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.mountd
        -- -r
        printf " mountd"
        printf ".\n"
        ;;
stop)
        printf "Stopping $DESC:"
        start-stop-daemon --stop --oknodo --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.mountd
        printf " mountd"
        start-stop-daemon --stop --oknodo --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.nfsd
        printf " nfsd"
        printf ".\n"
        ;;
reload | force-reload)
        printf "Reloading $DESC' configuration files.\n"
        start-stop-daemon --stop --signal 1 --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.mountd -- -r
        start-stop-daemon --stop --signal 1 --quiet --exec /usr/sbin/rpc.nfsd -- -r

Specifically the “– -r” text at the end of the start-stop-daemon lines. Debian should probably include options in the /etc/default/nfs-user-kernel file.

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